Beneath the Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo on the Celian Hill, 20 rooms of ancient Roman houses dating from the 1st to the 4th century AD are preserved with wall paintings, frescoes, and architectural features intact. These aren't empty ruins — the walls have painted decorations: eroti (cupids) in a wine press, a praying woman (orante) with outstretched arms, pagan and early Christian scenes coexisting in the same building. The rooms range from a Roman street-level taberna (shop) to an elaborate nymphaeum (fountain room) to a possible early Christian oratory. Almost nobody visits. The Celian Hill is the quietest of Rome's seven hills, and this underground complex is one of its most hidden treasures. Rome guide →
Plan my Rome trip →20 rooms spanning three centuries of Roman domestic life. The confessio (small underground chapel) has 9th-century frescoes depicting Christ and saints. The nymphaeum retains painted decorations of birds, garlands, and genii (protective spirits). One room has a striking scene of a woman (or goddess) with arms raised in prayer. The layers: the earliest structure (1st century) is a Roman insula (apartment block). In the 3rd century, two wealthy families merged several units into a luxurious domus. In the 4th century, the building may have been used for Christian worship — the basilica above was built over it in the 5th century.
Address: Clivo di Scauro (Celian Hill, between the Colosseum and the Baths of Caracalla). Tickets: €8. Hours: 10am-1pm and 3pm-6pm. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Duration: 45min. Small site, intimate atmosphere. Combine with: Colosseum (10min walk), Basilica di San Clemente + Mithraeum (10min), Aventine Hill keyhole (15min), Terme di Caracalla (10min).