Cetara is the working fishing village that the Amalfi Coast almost forgot. While Positano and Amalfi sell luxury and views, Cetara (population 2,200) sells anchovies — and the colatura di alici, an amber liquid extracted from salt-cured anchovies that is the direct descendant of Roman garum and the most prized condiment in Italian cuisine. A few drops on spaghetti with garlic and oil produces a dish of such umami intensity that Japanese chefs have been coming here specifically to source it. The harbor is genuine: fishing boats land anchovies and tuna, nets dry on the quay, and the Torre Vicereale (16th-century watchtower) guards the bay. Amalfi Coast →
Plan my Amalfi Coast trip →The process: Fresh anchovies (alici) are layered with coarse sea salt in chestnut wood barrels (terzigni), pressed with stones, and left for 2-3 years. The liquid that seeps through a hole in the barrel's base is colatura — amber, clear, intensely salty-umami, with a flavor that's fish essence without fishiness. A 100ml bottle costs €10-15. How to eat it: Spaghetti con la colatura (midnight pasta of Cetara — spaghetti tossed with garlic, chili, oil, and colatura. No cheese. No tomato. Just the sea). Where to buy: Nettuno (Via Corso Umberto I — the most famous producer), Delfino (another historic producer). Where to eat: Al Convento (€30-45 — Michelin-recommended, the full anchovy experience), Acqua Pazza (€40-55 — the fancier option, reservations essential).
Getting there: SITA bus from Amalfi (20min east) or Salerno (20min west). By boat: Travelmar ferries from Amalfi, Positano, Salerno (seasonal). Stay: €60-110/night (much cheaper than Amalfi/Positano). THE SMART MOVE: Base in Cetara and take buses to Amalfi/Positano. You save money and eat better. Combine with: Amalfi (20min), Atrani (15min), Vietri sul Mare (10min — ceramics capital), Salerno (20min).