Chianti in 3 days — the Sangiovese heartland between Florence and Siena

Chianti is not just a wine. It's a place. The Black Rooster zone: 70,000 hectares of rolling hills. The vine rows follow the contours. The stone villages haven't changed in 500 years.

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Day 1: Greve and Panzano

Car from Florence: 40 min on SS222 (Chiantigiana — one of Italy's great drives). Greve: triangular Piazza Matteotti. Antica Macelleria Falorni (since 1729): finocchiona salami, bistecca. Panzano (15 min south): Dario Cecchini's butcher shop — he recites Dante while cutting meat. Officina della Bistecca (€50 set menu, book ahead). Afternoon: Castello di Verrazzano (€18 tasting, explorer who discovered New York's harbor) or Vignamaggio (€15, where Mona Lisa allegedly lived).

Day 2: Radda, Gaiole, Castello di Brolio

Eastern Chianti — deeper, quieter, more serious. Radda in Chianti: compact hilltop, ancient walls. Gaiole: gateway to Castello di Brolio (€8 tour, €12 with tasting) — Ricasoli family invented modern Chianti Classico formula in 1872. Bettino Ricasoli, Italy's second PM. 360° vineyard views. Lunch: any agriturismo — €25–30 full Tuscan meal with house wine.

Day 3: Castellina and Chiantigiana

Castellina: Via delle Volte (covered medieval passageway in the walls). Etruscan tomb at Montecalvario (free, 7th century BC). Drive SS222 back toward Florence, stopping at cantina signs — many small producers offer tastings €5–10 or free with purchase. Final buy: a case of Chianti Classico Riserva direct from producer: €60–120, better and cheaper than home.

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