The Cimitero Monumentale (1866) is where Milan's wealthiest families built tombs that are, in many cases, more architecturally ambitious than their houses. Art Nouveau angels. Brutalist concrete pyramids. A full-size replica of the Last Supper in bronze. Campari family tomb (the aperitivo dynasty — appropriately flamboyant). It's a free, open-air museum of sculpture and architecture spanning 150 years of Milanese ambition, vanity, and grief.
Highlights: Famedio (Hall of Fame — entrance building, neo-Gothic, contains the tombs of Manzoni, Verdi's monument, and bronze plaques honoring Milan's great). Campari family tomb (Art Nouveau, golden mosaics, over-the-top — like their advertising). Edicola Bernocchi (a miniature Art Deco skyscraper as a tomb). The Last Supper replica (Giannino Castiglioni, bronze, life-size). Arturo Toscanini's tomb (simple, dignified — the conductor who refused to play for Mussolini).
Practical: Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale. FREE. Open Tue-Sun 8am-6pm. Metro M5 Monumentale. Duration: 1-1.5h (the cemetery is LARGE). Combine: Cimitero → Brera (20 min walk south) → Last Supper.