Cannellini
Must-SeeCreamy, mild, the classic for ribollita and fagioli all'uccelletto. Tuscans are called "mangiafagioli" (bean eaters) for a reason.
Borlotti
Must-SeePink-speckled, creamy when cooked. Essential for pasta e fagioli. Fresh borlotti in summer are a revelation.
Lenticchie di Castelluccio IGP
Must-SeeTiny, earthy, no-soak-needed. From the Sibillini mountains. Eaten at New Year for luck and prosperity. IGP protected.
Ceci (Chickpeas)
Must-SeeBase for farinata (Liguria), panelle (Sicily), pasta e ceci (Rome). Italian ceci are smaller and nuttier than Middle Eastern varieties.
Fave
Must-SeeFresh in spring with pecorino (fave e pecorino). Dried for macco di fave (Sicilian fava puree). A southern Italian staple.
Where to start
Eat pasta e fagioli in a Venetian bacaro, ribollita in a Florentine trattoria, and macco di fave in a Sicilian osteria โ three bean dishes, three completely different worlds.