Florence: Oltrarno district
Must-SeeThe artisan heart of Florence — leather workshops, gilders, bookbinders, tailors. Walk Via Maggio, Via Santo Spirito, and Borgo San Frediano. Look for open workshop doors.
Venice: Dorsoduro & Cannaregio
Must-SeeBeyond Murano glass — mask makers, paper printers, gondola forcola (rowlock) carvers. Ca' Macana (masks), Legatoria Piazzesi (paper), Saverio Pastor (forcola).
Naples: Via San Gregorio Armeno + Spaccanapoli
Must-SeePresepi artisans, tailors (Naples has a bespoke suit tradition), cameo carvers, coral workers. The Centro Storico is one big workshop.
Rome: Monti & Trastevere
Must-SeeMonti: independent fashion, vintage, artisan jewellery. Trastevere: leather workers, bookbinders, picture framers. Via del Boschetto (Monti) is the standout street.
Puglia: Grottaglie + Lecce
Must-SeeGrottaglie for ceramics (an entire quarter of workshops), Lecce for papier-mâché (cartapesta) and pietra leccese stone carving. Living traditions.
Bottom line
Florence's Oltrarno for the widest variety, Naples for the most characterful, Venice for the most unique. Wherever you go, cross the street away from the tourist flow and follow the sound of hammers.