Italian churches contain more art than most museums — and they're FREE. 3 Caravaggio paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi — free. Gregorian chant at San Miniato — free. But: cover shoulders+knees.
COVER SHOULDERS + KNEES. Guards at major churches WILL turn you away. The scarf solution: Carry a large scarf — wraps shoulders OR ties at waist. The most important packing item.
Rome: San Luigi dei Francesi (3 Caravaggio — €1 coin for light). Santa Maria del Popolo (2 Caravaggio + Bernini). Sant'Ignazio (greatest ceiling trompe l'oeil). Pantheon (free, Raphael's tomb). Florence: San Miniato (Gregorian chant 5:30pm). Santa Maria Novella (Masaccio's Trinity). Naples: San Severo (Veiled Christ, €10). Venice: San Marco (8,000m² gold mosaics, free). Sicily: Monreale (Byzantine gold). Ravenna San Vitale (6th-century mosaics).
Hours: 8-12 + 15:30-18:30. Closed during lunch. Photography: Usually OK (no flash). NOT during mass. Coins: €0.50-1 for chapel lighting — illuminates masterpieces for 2 min.