Italy with a baby is challenging in logistics and magical in humanity. The logistics: Cobblestones destroy stroller wheels. Changing tables barely exist. Italian restaurants don't have kids' menus (because Italian kids eat what adults eat). The humanity: Italians WORSHIP babies. Your child will be touched, praised, held by strangers, given free biscotti by waiters, and treated as a celebrity at every restaurant. The grandmother in the piazza will pick up your baby without asking. This is not creepy — it's Italy.
Bring a lightweight, small-wheeled stroller with front suspension — NOT a heavy jogging stroller with air tires. Better yet: a baby carrier/wrap (Ergobaby, BabyBjörn) for cobblestoned old towns. The carrier wins in: Venice (bridges = stairs, no ramps). Rome (cobblestones + narrow sidewalks). Florence (cobblestones). Hill towns (stairs everywhere). The stroller wins in: Parks (Villa Borghese, Boboli). Modern cities (Milan, Turin — flat, paved). Promenades (Naples Lungomare, lakeside paths).
The Italian riposo (1-3pm) is your baby's nap AND yours. Morning (8-11am): Museum or site (baby in carrier — most Italian museums allow babies). Midday (11am-1pm): Lunch (high chairs available at most restaurants — ask "avete un seggiolone?"). 1-3pm: Hotel nap. Afternoon (3-5pm): Park, gelato, gentle walking. 5-7pm: The passeggiata — the evening stroll. Italian families are ALL out with their children at this hour. Your baby will make friends. 7:30-8pm: Dinner (Italian restaurants are baby-friendly until 9pm; after that, it's adult hours).
Diapers (pannolini): Available at every supermarket and pharmacy. Pampers and Huggies brands available. Formula (latte in polvere): Pharmacies stock major brands (Aptamil, Mellin, Humana). Baby food (pappe): Supermarkets (Plasmon brand — Italy's #1 baby food, excellent quality, €1-2/jar). BUT: Italian restaurants will happily serve your toddler plain pasta in bianco (butter+Parmesan), mashed vegetables, or broth — just ask. Changing tables: Rare in restaurants. Common in: museums (major ones), department stores, McDonald's (yes — the cleanest option in emergencies), airports. Carry a portable changing pad.
Best cities for babies: Bologna (flat, covered porticoes for rain, university = progressive attitude). Rome (big parks, Villa Borghese, baby-crazy culture). Lake towns (slow pace, waterfront walks, ferry boats = entertainment). Avoid with babies: Venice (bridges+stairs+water = stress), extreme summer in southern cities (35-40°C + baby = dangerous heat).