One painting justifies the detour: Antonello da Messina's Portrait of an Unknown Man (1465-70). Dark tunic, slight smile, raised eyebrow — ironic intelligence looking directly at you. Painted 10 years before Leonardo's Mona Lisa, equally enigmatic, infinitely less crowded. €6, Cefalù.
Via Mandralisca 13. €6. Daily 9am-7pm. 20 min. Combine: Mandralisca → Norman Cathedral (Byzantine apse mosaic) → Cefalù beach lunch.