Olbia and northern Sardinia โ€” the Costa Smeralda and what they don't tell you about it

The Costa Smeralda was invented in 1962 by the Aga Khan. The water is genuinely emerald. The prices are genuinely insane. But beaches 20 min away are equally beautiful and free.

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Days 1โ€“2: Olbia and free beaches

Olbia is functional โ€” get out fast. Drive north to Baja Sardinia (25 min): turquoise water, zero entry. Porto Cervo: browse the marina (free to look at yachts). Spiaggia del Principe (15 min + 10 min walk): arguably Sardinia's most beautiful beach โ€” free, no facilities, just perfection. Day 2: Cannigione coast, Porto Pollo (windsurfing capital).

Days 3โ€“4: La Maddalena and Gallura

Ferry from Palau: 15 min, โ‚ฌ12 return with car. National park, clearest water in the Mediterranean. Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli (viewable by boat, landing prohibited). Boat tours โ‚ฌ30โ€“50/half day. Day 4: inland Gallura โ€” cork oak forests, granite formations. Stazzo agriturismi: โ‚ฌ25โ€“30 for four courses with local wine.

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