Ostuni is called "La Città Bianca" — the White City — because every building in its medieval centro storico is coated in white lime wash, a tradition that dates to the Middle Ages (lime has antibacterial properties — during plague years, whitewashing was a public health measure). The effect on a sunny day is dazzling: the entire town glows against the blue sky and the green olive groves below. The centro storico is a vertical labyrinth of arched lanes, external staircases, and tiny piazzas that climbs from the Valle d'Itria to the baroque Cathedral (15th century, rose window of 24 rays) at the summit. Below and around the town: the olive groves of the Ostuni plain — some trees are 1,000-2,000 years old — and the masserie (fortified farms) that have been converted into luxury hotels, agriturismi, and restaurants. Puglia →
Plan my Puglia trip →The centro storico: Enter through any of the gates and climb. The streets have no plan — they wind, dead-end, split, and reconnect through arches and under buildings. The reveal: at every turn, a new vista opens — a white wall against blue sky, an archway framing an olive grove, a rooftop terrace cascading with bougainvillea. Cathedral (15th century): Gothic-Romanesque facade with a spectacular 24-ray rose window. The crypt has frescoes. Piazza della Libertà: The main piazza at the base of the old town — the Colonna di Sant'Oronzo (the town's patron) and the starting point for the climb. The ancient olive trees: Drive the roads around Ostuni and you'll see monumental olive trees with trunks 3-5 meters in circumference — some over 1,500 years old, still producing olives, protected by law.
Ostuni's coast (Marina di Ostuni/Costa Merlata): 17km of coastline with rocky coves and sandy beaches — less developed than the Salento coast south. Pilone beach: Sandy, backed by dunes and a nature reserve. Torre Guaceto (10km north): A marine reserve with crystal-clear water and a restored 16th-century watchtower. Limited access (sustainability managed) — check torregiaceto.it.
Getting there: Ostuni station (Bari-Lecce line, 1h from Bari, 40min from Brindisi). By car: 1h from Bari, 30min from Brindisi airport. Stay: Masserie (€100-300/night for converted farmhouse luxury), centro storico B&Bs (€60-120), or trulli (€70-150). Eat: Osteria del Tempo Perso (in the old town caves — €30-45, orecchiette, bombette, burrata everything), Cielo (€40-55, terrace with white-city view). Combine with: Cisternino (12km — bombette), Locorotondo (20km), Alberobello (25km), Lecce (45min).