Piazzale Michelangelo is Florence's most famous viewpoint — a terrace on the hill south of the Arno with a panorama of the entire city: Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio tower, Ponte Vecchio, Santa Croce, the hills of Fiesole behind. At sunset, the city turns gold and the Duomo dome glows copper. 500 people sit on the steps with wine bottles and panini. Buskers play guitar. It's simultaneously a cliché and genuinely magnificent. The secret: walk 10 minutes ABOVE the piazzale to San Miniato al Monte — better view, 1/10 the people, Gregorian chant at 5:30pm.
How to get there: Bus 12 or 13 from center (€1.50, 15 min). OR walk from Ponte Vecchio via Piazza Poggi stairs (25 min uphill — the walk through the Giardino delle Rose is beautiful). Best time: 1 hour before sunset (arrive early for good position on the steps). Bring: Wine + plastic cups + something to sit on. San Miniato al Monte (10 min walk above): Romanesque church (1018) with geometric marble facade, interior floor mosaics, and a terrace with a WIDER panorama than the piazzale. Gregorian chant by the Olivetan monks at 5:30pm daily. Free.
The strategy: Walk up to Piazzale → continue to San Miniato → chant 5:30pm → walk back down to Piazzale for sunset → Oltrarno dinner.