Ravenna was capital three times: of the Western Roman Empire (402-476 AD), the Ostrogothic Kingdom (493-540), and the Byzantine Exarchate (540-751). Each period left mosaics. The result: 8 UNESCO Early Christian Monuments with the greatest concentration of 5th-6th century mosaics in the world — gold-ground Christ figures, imperial portraits (Justinian and Theodora at San Vitale are the most famous non-religious mosaic images in art history), a starry blue vault (Galla Placidia), and decorative programs of such quality that they defined what "Byzantine art" means for all subsequent centuries. Dante Alighieri died here in 1321 (exiled from Florence — Ravenna took him in, Florence still asks for his bones back, Ravenna refuses) and is buried in a small neoclassical tomb beside San Francesco. Emilia-Romagna →
Plan my Emilia trip →Basilica di San Vitale (547): The octagonal church with the Justinian and Theodora mosaic panels — the emperor and empress with their courts, in gold, purple, and green, facing each other across the apse. The vault mosaics (Christ on a globe, angels, lambs) are equally stunning. Mausoleo di Galla Placidia (425-50): A tiny cruciform building with the most intimate mosaic interior in Ravenna — a deep blue vault covered in gold stars, lunettes with drinking stags and the Good Shepherd. Entry is timed and limited — book at ravennamosaici.it. Sant'Apollinare Nuovo (6th century): Two famous mosaic processions — 26 Virgins and 26 Martyrs marching along the nave walls toward Christ and the Virgin. Battistero degli Ortodossi (5th century): Christ's baptism dome mosaic. Battistero degli Ariani (6th century): Arian version of the same scene — similar but theologically different. Cappella Arcivescovile (6th century): Christ as warrior. Sant'Apollinare in Classe (549, 5km outside): The apse mosaic — the Transfiguration represented symbolically with a golden cross, sheep, and a green paradise. Mausoleo di Teodorico (520): The Ostrogothic king's tomb — a circular building with a SINGLE stone dome weighing 300 tons.
Getting there: Ravenna station (Bologna-Rimini line, 1h from Bologna). Tickets: €12.50 combo (San Vitale + Galla Placidia + Sant'Apollinare Nuovo + Battistero Ortodossi + Cappella Arcivescovile). Valid 7 days. Galla Placidia supplement: €2 extra March-June (reservation recommended). Stay: €55-95/night. Duration: minimum 1.5 days for all 8 sites. Eat: Ca' de Ven (Via Corrado Ricci — piadina in a 15th-century palazzo, €8-12), Osteria del Tempo Perso (€25-35). Dante's tomb (Via Dante Alighieri): Small, free, with an eternal flame lit by Florentine olive oil (Florence's annual penance for exiling him). Combine with: Ferrara (1h), Bologna (1h), Brisighella (30min), Rimini (1h — Tempio Malatestiano, Fellini museum, beach).