Eat
Trattoria Cibreo (Fabio Picchi's legendary Florentine cooking โ no pasta, no reservations, queue early), Vivoli (Florence's oldest gelateria โ since 1930), Semel (creative panini from local ingredients).
See
Basilica di Santa Croce (Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli are buried here โ plus Giotto's frescoes), Scuola del Cuoio (leather school in the monastery behind the church โ watch artisans, buy direct).
Shop
Scuola del Cuoio for authentic Florentine leather. The streets around Piazza Santa Croce have fewer tourist shops than the Duomo area. Look for small artisan workshops (botteghe) on side streets.
Vibe
More local than the Duomo area, with real butchers, bakeries, and bars alongside the tourist sites. Piazza Santa Croce itself hosts a Christmas market, a football match (Calcio Storico in June), and summer cinema.
Why this neighbourhood?
Every great Italy trip includes at least one neighbourhood where you stop sightseeing and start living. This could be yours.