Syracuse — the Greek city that was richer than Athens

In the 5th century BC, Syracuse was the largest and wealthiest city in the Greek world. Bigger than Athens. Richer than Corinth. Powerful enough that when Athens sent its navy to conquer Syracuse in 415 BC, Syracuse destroyed it — the Athenian Expedition's failure was one of the great military disasters of antiquity and the beginning of Athens' decline. Archimedes was born here and allegedly defended the city with mirrors that set Roman ships on fire (probably myth, but the Romans did need 2 years to take it). Today: the Parco Archeologico (€13.50) contains a Greek theatre still used for performances every May-June, the Ear of Dionysius (a cave shaped like an ear with extraordinary acoustics — Caravaggio named it), and Roman amphitheatre. Then cross the bridge to Ortigia — the island old town — where a Greek temple became a cathedral (the Doric columns are still visible inside the walls), the waterfront restaurants serve the morning's catch for €15, and the evening passeggiata along the Lungomare is one of the most atmospheric walks in Sicily.