The Cattedrale di San Nicola Pellegrino in Trani is the most dramatically sited church in Puglia — built directly on the waterfront, its pale Trani stone facade rising from the quay with the Adriatic as its piazza. At sunset, the stone turns pink-gold and the reflection in the harbor water doubles the building. The cathedral (11th-13th century, Romanesque) has a bronze door by Barisano da Trani (1175), a crypt with Roman columns, and an even lower crypt (the Ipogeo di San Leucio, 6th century) with fragmentary frescoes. Behind the cathedral, the medieval Jewish quarter — Trani had one of the most important Jewish communities in southern Italy from the 9th-16th centuries — preserves four former synagogues, the oldest (Scolanova, 13th century) still recognizable. Puglia →
Plan my Puglia trip →Cattedrale (11th-13th century): The facade faces the sea — the double-arched window, the rose window, and the bell tower are best seen from the harbor. Bronze doors by Barisano da Trani (1175) depict saints and biblical scenes. Three levels: upper church, lower crypt of San Nicola (12th century frescoes), and Ipogeo di San Leucio (6th century — the original church). Jewish Quarter: Giudecca — narrow streets behind the cathedral. Scolanova synagogue (13th century, now church of Sant'Anna — the oldest surviving synagogue building in western Europe), three other former synagogues, and the Museo della Comunità Ebraica. Castello Svevo (Frederick II, 1233): Seafront fortress — austere, powerful, currently hosts exhibitions. €5. The port: Trani's harbor is lined with restaurants — the evening passeggiata along the waterfront is the town's best moment.
Getting there: Trani station (Bari-Foggia line, 40min from Bari). By car: 45min from Bari. Stay: €55-100/night. Eat: Corteinfiore (elegant, €40-55 — Pugliese seafood), Le Lampare al Fortino (€25-40, harbor view). Moscato di Trani: Sweet golden dessert wine from local Moscato grapes — try at Rivera winery (nearby Andria). Combine with: Castel del Monte (25min — Frederick II's mysterious octagonal castle), Bari (40min), Canosa (40min), Barletta (15min — Colossus bronze statue).