Every guidebook tells you to go to Trastevere. They're right — but they're also responsible for making parts of it a tourist trap. The main drag (Viale di Trastevere and the piazzas around Santa Maria) is now full of mediocre restaurants with English menus and inflated prices. The real Trastevere is in the streets behind — Vicolo del Cinque, Via della Scala, the area around San Cosimato market.
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