Abruzzo โ€” the wild heart of Italy that Romans keep as their private escape

Abruzzo is 1-2 hours east of Rome and most tourists have never heard of it. 3 national parks covering 1/3 of the region. The highest mountain in the Apennines (Corno Grande, 2,912m). Medieval villages so perfectly preserved they look like film sets (because they ARE โ€” Santo Stefano di Sessanio was restored by a Milanese entrepreneur as a "diffuse hotel"). A heart-shaped lake (Scanno). Europe's southernmost glacier (Calderone). And the food: arrosticini (lamb skewers grilled on a special narrow brazier), maccheroni alla chitarra (pasta cut with guitar strings), montepulciano d'Abruzzo wine (the most drinkable โ‚ฌ5 bottle in Italy). Romans treat Abruzzo like their private mountain backyard. Now you know the address.

The highlights

Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Medieval stone village (1,250m altitude), population 115, restored as an albergo diffuso (rooms scattered through the village in restored medieval houses). The most atmospheric small village in central Italy โ€” no cars, no shops, just stone alleys and silence and the Gran Sasso massif behind. โ‚ฌ60-120/night. Scanno. The village above a heart-shaped lake (Lago di Scanno โ€” truly heart-shaped from the viewpoint above). Stone houses, women still wearing traditional dress on feast days, goldsmith workshops (Scanno jewellery tradition). Campo Imperatore. A high plateau at 1,800m โ€” "Italy's Little Tibet." Grasslands, wild horses, the astronomical observatory, the Hotel Campo Imperatore (where Mussolini was imprisoned in 1943 before the Gran Sasso raid rescued him). In winter: skiing at 2,200m. In summer: hiking the Gran Sasso summit.

Pescasseroli (Parco Nazionale d'Abruzzo). The park HQ โ€” Marsican brown bears (100 remaining, endemic), wolves, chamois. Hiking trails through beech forests. The most important national park in the Apennines. Roccaraso / Rivisondoli. The closest ski resort to Rome (2h drive). 100km of runs, โ‚ฌ40 day pass. Not the Alps, but for a weekend escape from Rome with real snow: unbeatable.

Food

Arrosticini. THE Abruzzese dish โ€” tiny lamb skewers (1cm cubes on thin sticks) grilled on a long narrow brazier called a fornacella. You eat 15-30 per person. โ‚ฌ1-1.50 each. They're sold at every restaurant, every street corner, every sagra in Abruzzo. Maccheroni alla chitarra (square-cut pasta, served with lamb ragรน or tomato). Pallotte cacio e ova (cheese + egg balls in tomato sauce โ€” the vegetarian Abruzzese classic). Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wine โ€” full-bodied red, โ‚ฌ4-8/bottle, the most honest wine in Italy (no pretension, maximum drinkability).

Getting there

From Rome: A24/A25 autostrada. L'Aquila: 1h15. Santo Stefano: 1h45. Scanno: 2h. Pescasseroli: 2h. No useful train connections to mountain villages โ€” car essential. Rent from Rome โ†’ Best time: May-June (wildflowers, green), September-October (autumn colors, mushrooms), January-March (skiing + snow villages).

๐Ÿš— Car essential
Cars
๐Ÿจ Albergo diffuso
Booking
๐ŸŽซ Hiking tours
GYG

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