Amalfi was a maritime republic (839-1137) that rivaled Venice, Genoa, and Pisa: its fleet dominated the western Mediterranean, its Tabula Amalfitana was the maritime law code used across Europe, and its merchants traded with Byzantium and the Arab world. The Duomo di Sant'Andrea (9th-13th century) shows this cosmopolitan history: an Arab-Norman facade of polychrome inlay (recently restored to dazzling effect), a Chiostro del Paradiso (Cloister of Paradise, 1266 — Arab-pointed arches enclosing a garden with Roman sarcophagi), and a crypt with St. Andrew the Apostle's relics. Behind the town, the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills) preserves the paper mills that produced Amalfi's famous handmade paper (carta amalfitana) from the 13th century. The lemon groves on the terraces above produce the Sfusato Amalfitano — the lemon that becomes limoncello, delizia al limone, and the scent that defines the coast. Amalfi Coast →
Plan my Amalfi Coast trip →Duomo di Sant'Andrea: The 62-step staircase approach. The facade (19th-century restoration of the Arab-Norman original — polychrome marble and mosaic). The Chiostro del Paradiso (€3 — 120 interlaced Arab-pointed arches around a garden of palms and Roman sarcophagi). The crypt (St. Andrew's relics — his manna reportedly liquefies on June 27 and November 30). Museo della Carta (Paper Museum): In a 13th-century paper mill on Via delle Cartiere — working demonstrations of handmade paper production using medieval water-powered hammers. €5. Valle dei Mulini: Walk beyond the paper museum into the valley — ruined mills choked in vegetation, a humid gorge, the sense of an industry that peaked in the 17th century and died in the 19th. Lemon grove visits: Several farms above the town offer tours — see the sfusato terraces, taste limoncello at the source. €10-15.
Getting there: SITA bus from Salerno (1.5h) or Positano (40min). Ferry from Salerno (35min), Positano (25min), Capri (seasonal). Stay: €100-250/night (summer). Consider Atrani (5min walk, 30-50% cheaper). Eat: Da Maria (€20-30 — simple, genuine), Marina Grande (€35-50, waterfront, tourist-oriented but good fish). Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare: Every 4 years (rotates between Amalfi, Venice, Genoa, Pisa) — rowing race between the four maritime republics. Combine with: Atrani (5min walk), Ravello (bus 15min uphill), Minori (bus 5min), Furore fjord (bus 10min west).