On July 19, 1943, the Allies bombed the San Lorenzo district of Rome — the ONLY bombing of the Eternal City in WWII. 717 bombs fell. 3,000 people died. The basilica — one of the seven pilgrim churches of Rome, built over the tomb of St. Lawrence (martyred 258 AD, reportedly grilled alive on a griddle — his last words, according to legend: "Turn me over, I'm done on this side") — was BADLY DAMAGED. Pope Pius XII visited the district immediately after, arms open, white robes stained with the blood of victims he helped carry. The photo became iconic. The basilica was rebuilt. The scars remain — you can see where the restored sections meet the original 6th-century structure. Next to the basilica: the Cimitero del Verano — Rome's monumental cemetery, where Italy's post-unification history is written in marble.
The basilica: TWO churches merged — a 6th-century church built OVER and INTO a 4th-century church. The result: a split-level interior with the older church visible beneath the raised choir. 13th-century Cosmati cloister (surviving, beautiful, quiet). The tomb of St. Lawrence: In the confessio below the altar. The bombing damage: The facade was reconstructed post-1943 — look for the joints between original and restored stonework. The portico frescoes (13th century) on the entrance wall show the Life of St. Lawrence and the Life of St. Stephen (whose body is ALSO buried here — the two saints share the church).
Cimitero del Verano (adjacent): Rome's main cemetery since 1835. Monumental tombs, sculpture, the graves of: Marcello Mastroianni, Vittorio De Sica, Roberto Rossellini, Alberto Sordi (moved to Laurentina), Palmiro Togliatti (Communist leader), and thousands of Italian WWII dead. The Jewish section. The Fascist-era architecture of the main entrance. An outdoor museum of Italian national identity from 1835 to the present. Free. Open daily.
Piazzale del Verano (San Lorenzo district). Tram 3 or 19 from Termini area. Metro B: Policlinico + 10 min walk. The San Lorenzo neighborhood: Rome's university district — cheap trattorias, student bars, street art, a working-class/intellectual mix that has survived gentrification so far. Eat at the neighborhood's trattorias (Via dei Sabelli, Via dei Volsci) — Roman food at Roman prices, not tourist prices. Neighborhoods →