Italian chocolate: Turin gianduiotti, Modica Aztec, Perugina Baci

Older and weirder than you think.

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Turin: capital. Guido Gobino €20–40/box, Peyrano (1915), Baratti & Milano (1858). Modica: Aztec cold-processed. Bonajuto (1880, free tasting). Perugia: Perugina factory (free tour, book perugina.com). Florence: Vestri — hot chocolate so thick you eat it with a spoon. Naples: Gay-Odin (1894).

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