10 best osterias: wine first, food second, atmosphere always

Originally: drink, not eat. Now: among Italy’s best restaurants.

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1. Francescana, Modena — Bottura, 3 stars, €250+. 2. Boccadoro, Venice — Cannaregio seafood €15–20. 3. degli Spiriti, Lecce — Salentine+natural wine. 4. dell’Orsa, Bologna — €10 meal. 5. del Caffè Italiano, Florence — bistecca+Chianti. 6. Piazzetta Cattedrale, Ostuni — rooftop. 7. La Solita Zuppa, Chiusi — Tuscan soups. 8. al Duomo, Cefalù — cathedral view. 9. Antica Marina, Catania — inside the Pescheria. 10. Piemontese, Turin — bollito misto.

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