Piedmont's small towns are wine villages that also happen to be medieval masterpieces. Here is the complete guide.
Plan my Italy trip →Piedmont's small towns sit in three distinct landscapes: the Langhe hills (the Barolo and Barbaresco wine country between Cuneo and Asti), the Monferrato plateau (Barbera and Grignolino country), and the Alpine valleys (the Susa, Chisone, and Cuneese valleys with their medieval fortified villages). All three are extraordinary; most visitors see only Alba. Here is the complete guide.
Alba (Cuneo province, Langhe hills): The undisputed capital of the Langhe wine country and the white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico) trade. The Fiera del Tartufo di Alba (the International White Truffle Fair, October-November annually — the most important truffle fair in the world) transforms the town's Piazza Medford into the reference market for white truffle: prices ranging from €3,000 to €6,000 per kilogram (and record auction prices — a single 1.5kg specimen sold for €330,000 at a 2014 international auction). The town itself: the medieval towers, the Saturday market (the most complete agricultural market in the Langhe, with local cheeses, salami, hazelnuts (the Tonda Gentile delle Langhe hazelnut — the variety used by Ferrero for Nutella, which was invented in Alba in 1964 by Pietro Ferrero), and the wine cellars lining the main street. Day trip from Turin: 75 minutes by car (A6 motorway south, then Langhe roads east). Barolo village (Cuneo province): The village of Barolo (700 inhabitants, 360m elevation above the valley) sits in the center of the 11 communes whose vineyards produce Barolo DOCG wine. The Castello Falletti di Barolo (the 13th-century castle, now the WiMu — Wine Museum of Barolo — €15, one of the finest wine museums in Italy, with the specific geological displays explaining why the different Barolo communes (Serralunga, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Verduno) produce such different wine from the same grape on different soils). The enoteca in the castle gives glass-by-glass access to the entire Barolo commune production. Saluzzo (Cuneo province, alpine foothills): The most complete medieval town in Piedmont — the capital of the Marquisate of Saluzzo (1142-1548, a small independent state in the foothills between Piedmont and Provence) has preserved its medieval core almost entirely because the subsequent centuries brought no significant economic development to fund rebuilding. The Castiglia (the marquises' fortress above the town), the Gothic church of San Giovanni, and the medieval streets of the upper town (the Quartiere Medievale around Via Salita al Castello) are the specific heritage.
The white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico) is the only major culinary product in the world that cannot be cultivated — attempts to create truffle plantations have produced occasional successes with the black Périgord truffle (Tuber melanosporum) and the Burgundy truffle (Tuber aestivum), but the white truffle has never been successfully cultivated outside its natural habitat despite decades of research. The specific biological reason: T. magnatum forms a mycorrhizal relationship (a symbiotic fungal connection to tree roots) with specific oak (Quercus robur, Q. pubescens), poplar (Populus alba, P. tremula), willow, and linden trees — but the specific soil bacterial community, the specific pH range (6.5-8.5), the specific humidity retention, and the specific mineral composition that the white truffle requires cannot be reliably replicated artificially. The white truffle's distribution: natural populations exist in the Langhe and Monferrato hills of Piedmont, in parts of Umbria (San Miniato in Tuscany also produces smaller quantities), in Istria (Croatia/Slovenia), and in very limited areas of Serbia and Romania. The Langhe production is considered the highest quality — the specific combination of the calcareous clay soil (tufo — the same geological material as the volcanic tufa of the Lazio region but of different origin), the specific microclimate of the Langhe valleys, and the centuries of truffle-dog (lagotto romagnolo) selective breeding produce the Alba truffles that command the highest global prices. The specific fragrance: the white truffle's aroma compound (the specific terpenes and organosulfur molecules responsible for the smell — including dimethyl sulfide, bis(methylthio)methane, and 2,4-dithiapentane) is produced at maximum intensity in October-November, precisely when the Alba fair operates.
Italy has 58 UNESCO World Heritage Sites — the most of any country in the world. The famous ones (Colosseum, Venice, Cinque Terre, Pompeii) receive 90% of the visitors; the remaining 47 are often extraordinary and almost empty. Ten of the finest UNESCO sites that most international visitors have never heard of: (1) Su Nuraxi di Barumini (Sardinia): the most complete Bronze Age stone tower complex in the Mediterranean — 1500 BC, built without mortar, the nuraghe tower and surrounding village still structurally intact. 3,000 visitors per year vs 4 million at the Colosseum. (2) Certosa di Pavia (Lombardy): the most ornate Renaissance facade in Italy — the monastery church built 1396-1542 for the Visconti dynasty of Milan, with a facade of colored marble inlay, hundreds of sculpted figures, and relief panels that approach the density of illuminated manuscript decoration scaled to architectural size. 30 minutes from Pavia by bus. Free entry to the church. (3) The Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto (Sicily): eight towns rebuilt in identical Baroque style after the 1693 earthquake — Noto (the finest, most coherent single-style Baroque town in Italy), Modica (two hills of Baroque with the finest chocolate tradition in Italy — the Aztec-origin cold-process chocolate from the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto), Ragusa Ibla (the most dramatically sited, descending into a valley). (4) Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy: nine Alpine pilgrimage routes with life-size terracotta sculptures in chapel sequences — the Sacro Monte di Varallo (Vercelli province, 1486 — the first and most elaborate, with 45 chapels and 800 terracotta figures) is the reference site. (5) The Longobards in Italy (568-774 AD): seven sites across 6 Italian regions documenting the Lombard period — the most accessible is Santa Sofia church in Benevento (the octagonal Lombard church of 762 AD, now a museum of the Lombard cultural moment between Rome and the medieval period). (6) The Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Monferrato-Astigiano: the Barolo, Barbaresco, and Moscato d'Asti vineyard landscape, inscribed for its 2,000-year viticulture continuity — walk or drive through the Barolo communes (Serralunga, Barolo village, Castiglione Falletto) for the specific hill landscape that UNESCO is protecting. (7) Aquileia (Friuli): the ancient Roman city near Trieste — the floor mosaic of the Basilica (the largest early Christian mosaic floor in the western world, 4th century AD, 700m²) is visible under the church floor on raised walkways; the Foro Romano adjacent is almost entirely unexcavated. Population 3,500; annual visitors approximately 50,000. (8) Villa Romana del Casale (Piazza Armerina, Sicily): the most complete and finest Roman mosaic floor complex in the world — a late Roman villa (4th century AD) with 3,500m² of intact mosaic depicting hunting scenes, the famous "bikini girls" (female athletes in two-piece swimwear, the oldest known depiction of this clothing type), and mythological narratives. €10 entry. (9) Crespi d'Adda (Bergamo, Lombardy): the most complete surviving 19th-century company town in the world — Cristoforo Crespi's cotton mill village (1878-1930, complete with workers' housing, church, school, cemetery, and the owner's villa at the top of the social hierarchy) preserves the specific social geography of industrial paternalism. Free entry; 30 minutes from Bergamo. (10) Medici Villas and Gardens of Tuscany: 14 villas and 2 gardens of the Medici family, inscribed 2013 — the Villa La Petraia (10 minutes from Florence by bus, free entry) and the Villa di Poggio a Caiano (near Prato, free entry to the garden) are the most accessible.
Fifteen Italian food products with DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) or IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) status that are worth seeking at source: (1) Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP (minimum 12-year-aged balsamic): not the generic balsamic vinegar sold in supermarkets worldwide but the specific product aged for 12-25 years in a battery of decreasing barrels (cherry, chestnut, ash, mulberry, juniper) — dense, complex, sold in 100ml bottles at €50-150 from the acetaia (the attic aging space of Modenese farmhouses). The Consorzio Produttori Antiche Acetaie in Modena (Via Ganaceto 134) organizes visits. (2) Parmigiano-Reggiano DOP (aged 24+ months): the "summer" and "mountain" versions (vacche rosse — the red cow variant, the most complex flavored Parmigiano) available directly from the Consortium dairies near Parma and Reggio Emilia. The Caseificio 4 Madonne in Modena (Via Rivoluzione d'Ottobre 26) gives morning production visits at 8am (free, call ahead). (3) Lardo di Colonnata DOP (Carrara, Tuscany): white cured lard from the marble-quarrying village of Colonnata — aged in Carrara marble basins with herbs and spices for 6-10 months; paper-thin slices on warm bread are the specific application. Available only in Colonnata village and specialty food shops. (4) Nduja di Spilinga (Calabria — IGP): the spreadable fermented spicy pork paste from the Vibo Valentia province village of Spilinga — the 'Nduja is made from shoulder, cheeks, and innards of the Calabrian pig with a high proportion of Calabrian chili (the 'Ndrangheta level of heat). The specific Spilinga production (available directly from the village producers and at the Spilinga market) is significantly more complex than the supermarket version. (5) Pecorino di Pienza DOP (Val d'Orcia, Tuscany): the specific sheep's milk cheese aged in the Pienza caves — the cave aging gives a specific mineral quality from the tufa environment. Available at the cheese shops on the Pienza main street (Via dell'Amore) for €14-20/kg. (6) Provolone del Monaco DOP (Sorrento Peninsula): the aged cow's milk cheese made only in the Sorrento and Agerola mountain farming communities — a semi-hard stretched-curd cheese with the specific mineral quality of milk from cows grazing on the Lattari mountains above the Amalfi Coast. (7) Crudo di Cuneo DOP: the Piedmontese prosciutto from the Cuneo province — the specific microclimate of the Cuneo plain (dry cold Alpine air from the Maritime Alps) gives a salt-reduction and aging characteristic that distinguishes it from Parma ham. Available at the Cuneo market and the Langhe delicatessen shops. (8) Miele della Lunigiana DOP: the honey from the Lunigiana area (Massa-Carrara province, between Liguria and Tuscany) — acacia and chestnut variety, the only honey in Italy with DOP status; available from the producers in the Lunigiana hill villages. (9) Sedano Bianco di Sperlonga IGP: the white celery grown only in the Pontine coastal area near Sperlonga (Latina province, Lazio) — larger, less bitter, and more tender than standard celery, due to the specific sandy coastal soil and the natural blanching from the sand covering. (10) Patata della Sila IGP: the specific mountain potato of the Sila plateau in Calabria — grown at 1,000-1,400m altitude in the specific volcanic clay-loam soil, with an extremely high dry matter content (26-28%) that gives a floury texture appropriate for gnocchi and the Calabrian potato specialties unavailable from flatland varieties.
Eight Italian evening traditions that are as worth experiencing as the daytime attractions: (1) The Milan aperitivo hour (6-9pm): Milan invented the modern concept of the aperitivo-with-food — from the 1980s onward, the Navigli district bars and subsequently the entire city developed the tradition of a single drink price (€8-12) that includes access to a substantial buffet of food. The Navigli (Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese canals) at aperitivo hour on a summer evening is the finest version of a specifically Milanese social institution. The Negroni (Campari, sweet vermouth, gin) was invented in Florence but Campari itself (the specific bitter orange aperitivo, invented by Gaspare Campari in Milan in 1860) is the Milan drink. (2) The Bolognese passeggiata under the porticoes (7-9pm, any evening): Bologna's evening walk under the 38km portico network is the specific social institution of a city where walking between venues is comfortable regardless of weather. The Quadrilatero (the market neighborhood between Via Rizzoli and Via Farini) at aperitivo hour has the finest food shop concentration in Italy — Tamburini (the historic salumeria), Paolo Atti (the pasta shop), Majani (the chocolate shop) all open late. (3) The Palermo Vucciria market evening (7-11pm): The transformation of the historic fish market into an outdoor social space from approximately 7pm — the specific Palermo quality of a 1,000-year-old market square being used as a social gathering point by Palermitani of all ages simultaneously. (4) The Naples passeggiata on the Lungomare (sunset, any evening): The Via Partenope and Lungomare Caracciolo along the Bay of Naples at sunset, with Vesuvius visible across the water and the Castel dell'Ovo on its peninsula — the most cinematically Neapolitan public space. The specific quality: the Neapolitan passeggiata is more vigorous and more theatrical than the northern Italian version. (5) The Siena Campo at midnight (any clear evening): The Campo at midnight, empty of day tourists, with the Palazzo Pubblico's tower illuminated and the specific acoustic quality of the piazza (the scallop shape amplifies sounds at the center) — one of the finest European public spaces experienced in its least-visited condition. (6) The Venice Rialto market fish section (6:30-11am, Tues-Sat): not evening but the inverse — the finest morning market experience in Venice, with the day's catch from the Venetian lagoon displayed on the marble counters before the tourist crowds arrive. (7) The Matera Sassi by night (after 9pm): The cave-city illuminated at night — the specific quality of thousands of cave windows lit from within, the rock face of the Murgia Plateau visible across the Gravina ravine, and the almost complete absence of tourists after 9pm in the Sassi neighborhoods. (8) The Florence Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset (specific timing: approximately 30 minutes before official sunset): the Florentine tradition of watching the city from the Piazzale at the moment when the Duomo's cupola catches the last direct sunlight before the city floor falls into shade — the specific light quality of 10-15 minutes when the terracotta dome is orange-red and the Arno river is silver — is the finest single daily visual event in Tuscany.
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