12 best trattorias: paper tablecloths, no menu, nonna in the kitchen

Real trattoria: paper tablecloths, no English menu, nonna in the kitchen.

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1. Mario, Florence — shared tables, cash, €10–14. 2. Anna Maria, Bologna — tagliatelle al ragù €12. 3. Da Enzo al 29, Rome — Trastevere, cacio e pepe €11. 4. Tandem, Naples — ragù 8h €10. 5. ai Cascinari, Palermo — pasta con le sarde €9. 6. Cumpa’ Cosimo, Ravello — since 1929. 7. del Tribunale, Parma — tortelli €10. 8. Da Rocco, Florence — €5 lunch. 9. dell’Orsa, Bologna — student prices. 10. da Romano, Burano — risotto di gò €14. 11. Il Tempio, Spoleto — strangozzi €13. 12. Alle due Corti, Lecce — ciceri e tria €10.

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