Campli โ€” the Abruzzo hill town with a Scala Santa (28 holy steps that forgive all sins), a Farnese palace, a pre-Roman necropolis, and the quiet confidence of a place that once rivaled Teramo

Only three Scala Santa (Holy Staircases) in the world offer plenary indulgence โ€” Rome (Lateran), Jerusalem, and Campli. In 1772, Pope Clement XIV granted Campli's church of San Paolo the privilege of plenary indulgence for those who climb the 28 wooden steps on their knees. The Scala Santa is still used: Abruzzese faithful climb on their knees, especially on Good Friday and September 14 (Feast of the Holy Cross). Beyond the staircase: Campli (population 7,000) is a medieval town of unexpected sophistication โ€” the Palazzo Farnese (14th century, now Museo Archeologico with finds from the nearby Necropoli di Campovalano), a Romanesque-Gothic cathedral, and the centro storico climbing a ridge with views over the Vibrata valley to the Gran Sasso massif. Abruzzo →

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What to see

Scala Santa (Church of San Paolo): 28 wooden steps behind the altar โ€” climb on your knees (the traditional method) or walk. The staircase walls are painted with Passion scenes (18th century). Palazzo Farnese / Museo Archeologico: The major museum of the Vibrata valley โ€” finds from the Campovalano necropolis (Italic, 10th-3rd century BC) including bronze armor, gold jewelry, amber necklaces, and warrior burials. €4. Necropoli di Campovalano (3km): The excavation site โ€” over 600 tombs from the pre-Roman Italic peoples. Guided visits by arrangement. The centro storico: Duomo di Santa Maria in Platea (Romanesque portal), Case Medievali (medieval tower houses on Via Garibaldi), and the Loggia (14th-century covered market). The porchetta di Campli: A specific local variant โ€” slightly different spicing from Ariccia's โ€” sold at food stalls during the porchetta festival (August).

Practical

Getting there: car from Teramo (15min), L'Aquila (1h), Ascoli Piceno (40min). No useful train. Stay: €35-55/night. Eat: local trattorias (€20-30 โ€” maccheroni alla chitarra, arrosticini, porchetta). Combine with: Teramo (15min โ€” Roman theater, cathedral), Civitella del Tronto (15min โ€” the last Bourbon fortress to fall during Unification), Gran Sasso (45min), Ascoli Piceno (40min โ€” the most beautiful piazza in the Marche).

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