Florence has 7 Last Supper frescoes in refectories across the city. Leonardo's is in Milan (€16, book 3 months ahead). Ghirlandaio's (1480) is in the Ognissanti refectory — free, no booking, no queue, and painted 15 years BEFORE Leonardo's. Christ and the apostles at a table set with glassware, bread, cherries, and a cat under Judas's chair. The garden behind the table shows cypress trees, orange trees, and flying birds — all painted with Ghirlandaio's trademark decorative exuberance.
The fresco: 8m wide, covering the refectory end wall. Ghirlandaio painted it in 1480 for the Vespucci family (Amerigo Vespucci — the explorer who gave his name to America — was a neighbor). Compare with Leonardo: Ghirlandaio's is calm, decorative, static. Leonardo's (1498) is explosive, psychological, dramatic. Seeing Ghirlandaio FIRST makes Leonardo's revolution visible. Also free: Cenacolo di Sant'Apollonia (Andrea del Castagno, 1447 — the earliest surviving monumental Last Supper in Florence, Via XXVII Aprile 1).
Practical: Borgo Ognissanti 42. FREE. Open Mon-Sat 9am-12pm. Duration: 15 min. Combine: Ognissanti church (Botticelli's tomb + Ghirlandaio's St. Jerome fresco, free) → walk to Mercato Centrale (15 min).