Eat
Umberto (classic Neapolitan restaurant since 1916), 'O Saraceno (seafood with bay views), Pescheria Mattiucci (fresh fish sandwiches at the harbour), Gran Caffè Gambrinus (Naples' most famous cafe — pastries and people-watching since 1860).
Drink
Barril (craft cocktails in an intimate setting), L'Ebbrezza di Noè (wine bar institution), Chiaia's aperitivo scene along Via Chiaia and Riviera di Chiaia is Naples' best.
See
Castel dell'Ovo (Naples' oldest castle, on the waterfront — free, sunset views), Lungomare (the seafront promenade with Vesuvius views — walk it at sunset), Piazza dei Martiri (elegant square), Villa Comunale (waterfront park).
Vibe
Wealthy, elegant, calm compared to the Centro Storico. This is where Neapolitan professionals live, shop, and eat. The waterfront passeggiata at sunset is one of Italy's great promenades.
Why this neighbourhood?
Every great Italy trip includes at least one neighbourhood where you stop sightseeing and start living. This could be yours.