Eat
Friggitoria Vomero (the best fried food in a city of fried food), Pasticceria Bellavia (pastries and cakes), Trattoria da Nennella (technically in Quartieri Spagnoli below, but worth the funicular ride down).
See
Castel Sant'Elmo (14th-century fortress — the rooftop terrace has the best 360° panorama in Naples. €6), Certosa di San Martino (Baroque monastery museum — the cloister and the view are extraordinary), Villa Floridiana (park with Duca di Martina ceramics museum).
Shop
Via Scarlatti and Via Luca Giordano are Naples' best non-tourist shopping streets. Italian fashion brands, local boutiques, and bookshops. Via Scarlatti becomes a pedestrian market area on weekends.
Getting there
Three funiculars connect Vomero to the city below: Centrale (from Via Toledo), Chiaia (from waterfront), and Montesanto (from Piazza Montesanto). The ride itself is part of the fun.
Why this neighbourhood?
Every great Italy trip includes at least one neighbourhood where you stop sightseeing and start living. This could be yours.