Chiusi โ€” the Etruscan underground, where a labyrinth leads to Lars Porsena's legendary tomb, painted rock chambers survive from 500 BC, and a lake lies beneath the cathedral

Chiusi (ancient Clevsin/Camars) was one of the 12 capitals of the Etruscan League โ€” the city of the legendary Lars Porsena, who attacked Rome around 508 BC (the story of Horatius on the bridge). The town sits on a labyrinth: the Labirinto di Porsena is a network of Etruscan-era tunnels beneath the centro storico, converging on a massive Roman cistern under the cathedral โ€” possibly connected to Porsena's never-found tomb (Pliny described it as having a massive base of 5 pyramids). Outside town: painted Etruscan tombs โ€” the Tomba della Scimmia (Tomb of the Monkey, 480 BC) and others with frescoes depicting banquets, games, and mythological scenes. The Museo Archeologico Nazionale displays one of the finest Etruscan collections in Tuscany. Tuscany →

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What to see

Labirinto di Porsena: Guided tours (1h) from the Museo della Cattedrale โ€” descend through Etruscan tunnels beneath the town, passing the massive Roman cistern and emerging inside the cathedral bell tower (climbable โ€” Val di Chiana views). €5. Museo Archeologico Nazionale Etrusco: Etruscan cinerary urns (carved scenes), bucchero ware (distinctive black Etruscan pottery), and canopic jars (urns with human-head lids โ€” uniquely Chiusine). €6. Painted tombs: Visits by appointment through the museum โ€” the Tomba della Scimmia (480 BC โ€” a monkey on a tree, banquet scenes, wrestlers), Tomba del Leone, and others. The lake under the cathedral: Part of the Labirinto tour โ€” a section of the cistern system holds standing water, creating an underground lake beneath the Duomo.

Practical

Getting there: Chiusi-Chianciano station (Rome-Florence slow line, 2h from Rome, 2h from Florence). By car: 30min from Montepulciano, 1.5h from Florence. Stay: €45-75/night. Eat: Zaira (€25-35 โ€” pici, bistecca chianina), La Solita Zuppa (€20-30 โ€” the name means "the usual soup" and that's what you should order). Combine with: Montepulciano (30min), Pienza (35min), Chianciano Terme (10min โ€” thermal spa), Lake Trasimeno (20min), Cortona (25min).

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