Genova → Cinque Terre → Portofino — the Italian Riviera from gritty to glamorous

300km arc of cliffs, harbors, and focaccia. Genova is the gritty anchor. Cinque Terre is the wild middle. Portofino is the polished jewel. All by train.

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Days 1–2: Genova

Genova is built on cliffs. The Caruggi (medieval alleyways) are the largest old town in Europe. Via Garibaldi (UNESCO): Palazzo Rosso (€9) with Van Dyck, Veronese. Old port: Renzo Piano's redevelopment, Acquario (€28). Focaccia di Recco at Revello — paper-thin cheese-filled flatbread, €3. Pesto: trofie al pesto at Il Genovese.

Day 3: Cinque Terre

Train Genova–Monterosso: 1h30, €8–12. Cinque Terre Card €18.50/day. Walk Monterosso–Vernazza (1h45). Sunset from Manarola.

Day 4: Portofino and Santa Margherita

Train to Santa Margherita (40 min, €5). Bus or boat to Portofino (15 min). Harbor, Castello Brown (€5), lighthouse walk at Punta del Faro (30 min — best walk on the Riviera). Eat in Santa Margherita: Da Baicin for seafood (€15–20).

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