Bottarga di Muggine
Must-SeeSalted, pressed, and dried mullet roe — Italy's "poor man's caviar." Grated over spaghetti or shaved thin with celery and lemon. Cabras (Sardinia) produces the finest. Intense, savoury, umami-rich.
Colatura di Alici
Must-SeeThe liquid gold of the Amalfi Coast — fermented anchovy extract, descended from Roman garum. A few drops transform spaghetti. Buy from producers in Cetara (the fishermen's village). €10-15 for a small bottle.
Baccalà (Salt Cod)
Must-SeeOnce a poverty food, now a delicacy. Baccalà alla vicentina (Vicenza), baccalà fritto (Rome), baccalà with chickpeas (Sicily). Each region has its signature preparation.
Acciughe sotto Sale
Must-SeeWhole anchovies layered with sea salt and aged in barrels. Rinsed and filleted before use. Infinitely better than tinned anchovies in oil. A pantry essential.
Tonnetto Sott'olio
Must-SeeTuna packed in olive oil — the artisanal Sicilian version is incomparably better than industrial canned tuna. Tonnara di Favignana is the most famous producer.
Where to start
Buy colatura di alici in Cetara on the Amalfi Coast — the tiny fishing village produces it in traditional barrels. A €12 bottle lasts months and transforms pasta.