The Italian Riviera in 5 days — 200km of cliffs, pesto, and the bluest water north of Sicily

The Ligurian coast from the French border to La Spezia. The stretch from Portofino to Portovenere is arguably the most dramatic coastline in mainland Italy.

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Day 1: Genova

Genova Caruggi old town, Palazzo Rosso on Via Garibaldi, focaccia di Recco, pesto trofie, old port.

Day 2: Portofino

Train to Santa Margherita (40 min, €5). Walk to Portofino (30 min coastal path). Harbor, Castello Brown (€5), lighthouse walk. Paraggi beach (between SML and Portofino — the only sandy beach here, small, gorgeous).

Days 3–4: Cinque Terre

Monterosso (1h from SML). Day 3: hike Monterosso–Vernazza, swim, sunset from Manarola. Day 4: Riomaggiore, Corniglia (quietest village, 382 steps from station), boat trip (€18 day pass). Sleep La Spezia.

Day 5: Portovenere and Lerici

Bus or boat to Portovenere (30 min). UNESCO: painted houses, Church of San Pietro on cliff tip where Byron swam. Ferry to Palmaria island (€5, nature reserve). Afternoon: Lerici (30 min) — castle, beach, Shelley's favorite bay. He drowned here in 1822.

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