5 days to walk the entire Ligurian coast. All 5 Cinque Terre + Sentiero Azzurro, Portofino + San Fruttuoso, Genoa (the most underrated city in Italy), Camogli (the real fishing village), and Portovenere (Byron's grotto). Pesto, focaccia, and farinata at every stop.
Each day is a logical geographic loop. Mornings for sights, afternoons for food, evenings for aperitivo. Car essential in Liguria.
Cinque Terre (2 days) — All 5 villages by train. Hike Vernazza-Monterosso + Corniglia sanctuary trail. Manarola sunset. Vernazza harbor aperitivo. Portofino + Camogli (1 day) — Camogli (the REAL fishing village — Sagra del Pesce in May), ferry to Portofino, hike to San Fruttuoso. Genoa (1.5 days) — Caruggi, Via Garibaldi/Rolli palaces (UNESCO), old port, Acquario, Cimitero Monumentale di Staglieno (the most dramatic cemetery in Italy). Portovenere (half day) — the church on the cliff, Byron's Grotto, Palmaria island ferry.
Best time: April-June, September-October. Agriturismi 60-100/night with breakfast. Book 2-4 weeks ahead in summer.