Cardinal Farnese hired Vignola to build a pentagonal palace (1559-75) on a hilltop north of Rome. 5 sides, circular courtyard, rooms frescoed by the Zuccari brothers. Sala del Mappamondo: 16th-century world maps covering every wall. Scala Regia: helical staircase, 30 Doric columns per floor. €5. 1h from Rome. Virtually unknown internationally.
Piazza Farnese 1, Caprarola. €5 palace + €2 garden. Tue-Sun 8:30am-sunset. From Rome: 1h car or COTRAL bus from Saxa Rubra.