Riomaggiore is the southernmost (and nearest to La Spezia) of the five villages, built in a steep gorge where the Rio Maggiore stream meets the sea. The houses are "tower houses" — tall, narrow, often only one room wide, stacked so close together that the gorge is more roof than sky. The main street (Via Colombo) descends through the gorge to a tiny marina where concrete platforms serve as swimming spots and fishing boats are stored. The Via dell'Amore — the famous cliff-carved lover's walk connecting Riomaggiore to Manarola — has been under restoration since 2012 (landslides) and is gradually reopening in sections. The castle (Castello di Riomaggiore, 13th century) at the top of the village gives panoramic views over the coast and inland to the vineyard terraces. Cinque Terre →
Plan my Cinque Terre trip →Via Colombo: The main street — descend from the station through the tunnel, then down Via Colombo to the marina. Shops, restaurants, and the life of the village. The marina: Concrete ramps and rocks where boats are stored. Swimming from the rocks — bring water shoes, the entry is rough. The water is deep, clear, and cold. Castello di Riomaggiore (13th century): At the top of the village — a small fortress, now an event space, with panoramic views. Free access to the grounds. Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista (1340): Gothic church at the top of the gorge — carved doorway, rose window. Via dell'Amore: Check status at cinque-terre.it — sections reopen periodically. When open, the 1km cliff walk to Manarola (20min) is the most romantic walk in Liguria.
Getting there: Riomaggiore station (8min from La Spezia, 25min from Genoa-bound trains). NO CARS. Park in La Spezia. Stay: €75-140/night (rooms and apartments only). Eat: Dau Cila (harbor — €30-45, the terrace over the rocks), Rio Bistrot (€25-35), street focaccia from any bakery (€3-5). Boat trips: From the marina to Portovenere, the other 4 villages, or the Palmaria island. Combine with: Manarola (one stop, 3min), La Spezia (8min — Museo Amedeo Lia art collection), Portovenere (boat or bus from La Spezia).