Piazzale Michelangelo gets 500 at sunset. San Miniato — 10 min above — gets 50. Wider panorama. Romanesque facade (1018) gleaming gold in sunset light. And at 5:30pm daily: Olivetan monks chant Gregorian vespers. 1,000-year-old columns, apse mosaic, zodiac floor. The Florence locals keep for themselves. FREE.
Via delle Porte Sante 34. FREE. Daily 8am-7pm. Walk 10 min up from Piazzale or bus 12/13. Strategy: Chant 5:30pm → walk to Piazzale for sunset → Oltrarno dinner.