Eat
Di Matteo (fried pizza, €3 — the best street food in Naples), Pintauro (sfogliatella since 1785), Gay-Odin (Neapolitan chocolate), Tandem (ragù napoletano specialist). The entire street is a food experience.
See
Cappella Sansevero (Veiled Christ — book ahead, tiny, sells out), San Gregorio Armeno (the presepi/nativity figure street), Napoli Sotterranea (underground Naples tour), MADRE museum (contemporary art).
Experience
Walk from Via dei Tribunali to Via Benedetto Croce — the full Spaccanapoli length. Look up at laundry lines, peek into courtyards, step into churches (there are dozens, all free, all extraordinary).
Warning
Keep valuables secure (front pocket, crossbody bag). Don't flash phones on scooter-accessible streets. This is basic urban awareness, not fear — Spaccanapoli is safe but has petty theft like any dense urban area.
Why this neighbourhood?
Every great Italy trip includes at least one neighbourhood where you stop sightseeing and start living. This could be yours.