Taurasi โ€” the Barolo of the South, made from Aglianico on volcanic soil in the Irpinia hills, a wine so tannic it needs a decade to reveal its genius

Aglianico is Italy's most underrated great grape, and Taurasi DOCG โ€” from the Irpinia hills east of Naples โ€” is its most powerful expression. The Romans called Aglianico "ellenico" (Greek) because it arrived with Greek colonists. On the volcanic soils of Irpinia (the vines grow on deposits from Mount Vesuvius and the Campanian volcanic arc), Aglianico produces wines of extraordinary intensity: dark, tannic, acidic, with flavors of black cherry, tar, leather, smoke, and volcanic mineral. Young Taurasi is ferociously tannic โ€” almost undrinkable at 3 years. At 10-15 years, it becomes magnificent. At 20-30 years, it rivals anything from Piemonte or Burgundy. Italian wine professionals call it the Barolo of the South and they're not wrong. Campania guide → · Naples →

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Best producers

Mastroberardino (Atripalda): The historic house โ€” the family that kept Aglianico alive when everyone else was ripping out vines to plant international varieties. Their Radici Taurasi Riserva is legendary. Beautiful cantina, €20-35 tasting. Feudi di San Gregorio (Sorbo Serpico): The modern star โ€” Hikaru Ando-designed winery, the Piano di Montevergine Taurasi is world-class. Outstanding visitor experience, restaurant on-site. €20-40. Quintodecimo (Mirabella Eclano): Luigi Moio (professor of enology at Naples University) makes scientifically precise, emotionally intense Taurasi. Small production, visits by appointment. Antonio Caggiano (Taurasi village): The photographer-turned-winemaker whose Vigna Macchia dei Goti is one of the benchmarks. €15-25.

Practical

Taurasi DOCG zone: Irpinia hills, Avellino province (1h east of Naples by car). Getting there: Avellino by bus from Naples (1h), then car to wineries. Prices retail: Taurasi €15-30, Riserva €25-50. Best time: harvest (October), or spring. Stay: Avellino (€50-80/night), or agriturismo in the Irpinia hills (€55-90). Eat: Irpinia cuisine โ€” fusilli with ragù, caciocavallo podolico (from semi-wild Podolica cows), chestnut everything in autumn. Combine with: Naples (1h), Benevento (Arco di Traiano, 30min), Amalfi Coast (2h โ€” pair Taurasi with Amalfi seafood for the ultimate Campania meal).

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