Tellaro is a fishing village of perhaps 200 residents at the end of a road that goes nowhere else. There is one lane, one piazza, one church (San Giorgio, 16th century), and a cluster of houses built directly on the rocks above the water. The legend: centuries ago, during a Saracen pirate raid in the night, a giant octopus climbed from the sea and grabbed the rope of San Giorgio's bell, ringing it to wake the sleeping villagers and save the town. The octopus is Tellaro's symbol — carved in stone, printed on menus, celebrated annually. The reality: Tellaro is one of the most beautiful small coastal settlements in Italy (Borghi più belli d'Italia), with an atmosphere of extreme quietness, extreme beauty, and the particular magic of a place that is difficult to reach and impossible to forget. Liguria →
Plan my Gulf of Poets trip →The village: One lane, staircases, and the small piazza above the water. The church of San Giorgio overlooks the rocks and the sea — the view from the parvis is the view that makes you reconsider your life choices (specifically: why do you not live here?). Swimming: From the rocks below the village — the water is clear, deep, and warm in summer. Snorkeling is excellent (search for the octopus). The road in: A narrow 2km dead-end from Lerici that ends at a tiny parking area. There is no way through — Tellaro is a destination, not a stop. Eat: Miranda (€35-50 — family-run, fresh fish, terrace over the water. Reservation essential — 4 tables). Locanda Senio (€25-35).
Getting there: car from Lerici (5min). Bus from La Spezia/Lerici (infrequent — check schedule). VERY limited parking. Arrive before 10am in summer or park in Lerici and take the bus/walk. No accommodation within Tellaro itself (a few B&Bs in the surrounding area). Duration: 1-2 hours. Combine with: Lerici (5min), Portovenere (ferry from Lerici, 30min), Cinque Terre (train from La Spezia, 15min to Riomaggiore).