Testaccio is where Roman food was invented — literally. The neighborhood grew up around the slaughterhouse (now a contemporary art museum, MACRO Testaccio), and the "quinto quarto" (fifth quarter) dishes — coda alla vaccinara, trippa, pajata — were created by workers using the parts the rich didn't want. Today the Testaccio Market is Rome's best food market, and the surrounding streets have more authentic trattorias per square meter than anywhere in the city.
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