Eat
Da Enzo al 29 (queue at 7pm for Roman classics), Tonnarello (cacio e pepe in a fairy-lit piazza), Nannarella (tiramisù to weep over), Suppli (the best fried rice balls in Rome), Pizzeria Ai Marmi ("the morgue" — marble tables, thin Roman pizza).
Drink
Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà (craft beer institution), Enoteca Ferrara (natural wines), Bar San Calisto (the cheapest drinks in Rome — a local institution, gloriously scruffy).
See
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere (12th-century mosaics, stunning at night), Gianicolo hill (best panoramic view of Rome — walk up for sunset), Orto Botanico (botanical garden, €4, peaceful).
Shop
Pelletteria Nives (handmade leather since 1952), Open Door Bookshop (English-language books), Mercato di Porta Portese (giant Sunday flea market — arrive by 8am).
Why this neighbourhood?
Every great Italy trip includes at least one neighbourhood where you stop sightseeing and start living. This could be yours.