Italian aperitivo: the ritual, rules, 10 best cities

Not happy hour. A civic ritual. 6–8pm. Drink + food. €7–12.

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Milan: invented buffet aperitivo. Rome: in piazzas. Turin: most elegant. Florence: on the Arno. Venice: cicchetti crawl. Bologna: under porticoes. Drinks: Aperol Spritz, Negroni (invented Florence 1919), Campari Soda, Hugo (Trentino).

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