Caravaggio's Calling of St Matthew, San Luigi dei Francesi
Must-SeeFreeIn a side chapel of a public church — free entry. Insert a coin to illuminate the painting and watch the light hit exactly as Caravaggio intended. Bring coins.
Bernini's Ecstasy of St Teresa, Santa Maria della Vittoria
Must-SeeFreeThe most sensual sculpture in Western art — Teresa pierced by an angel's arrow. The theatrical alcove with hidden window creates Bernini's intended lighting effect.
Caravaggio's Works in Naples
Hidden GemThe Pio Monte della Misericordia holds the Seven Works of Mercy. Capodimonte Museum has the Flagellation. Naples was Caravaggio's refuge and some of his darkest work lives here.
Chiesa del Gesu, Rome
Must-SeeFreeThe mother church of the Jesuits — Baciccia's ceiling fresco appears to burst through the architecture. The definitive Baroque church interior. Free, uncrowded.
Lecce Baroque (entire city)
UNESCOHidden GemThe entire old town of Lecce is Baroque — carved from soft local limestone (pietra leccese) into fantastical facades. Called the "Florence of the South". Walk the centro storico.
Where to start
Start in Rome: San Luigi dei Francesi (Caravaggio, free), then Santa Maria della Vittoria (Bernini), then Il Gesu (ceiling). Three masterpieces, all free, in one morning.