90% of Florence tourists see 5 things. The other Florence — Oltrarno workshops, San Miniato chanting monks, the door to a Renaissance garden — is 200m away and a world apart.
1. San Miniato 5:30pm vespers: Monks chant in Romanesque church. Walk outside: sunset BETTER than Piazzale (same hill, fewer people). Free. 2. Oltrarno artisan crawl: Via Maggio, Via Santo Spirito — leather restorers, gilders, bookbinders. Peek inside, most welcome visitors. Bookable workshops → 3. Boboli 8:30am: 45,000m² with 6 visitors. View of dome FROM gardens. 4. Piazza Santo Spirito evening: Oltrarno's living room — students, aperitivo on Brunelleschi's church steps. 5. Santa Maria Novella pharmacy: World's oldest (1221) — frescoed halls, handmade perfumes.
6. Cenacolo Andrea del Sarto (Via San Salvi): Last Supper RIVALING Leonardo's. Free. Nobody goes. EVER. 7. Cappella Brancacci (Oltrarno): Masaccio's frescoes (1425) — birth of Renaissance painting. €10. 8. Mercato Sant'Ambrogio: REAL food market (not tourist San Lorenzo). 9. Ditta Artigianale: Florence's best specialty coffee. 10. Giardino Bardini: Secret terraced garden, stunning views. €10. 11-15: Giardino delle Rose (free, blooms Apr-May). Cimitero Inglesi (Browning's grave). Torre San Niccolò (free panorama, seasonal). San Salvatore al Monte (Michelangelo's "bella villanella"). Corridoio Vasariano (Medici's private elevated walkway — check opening status).