Testaccio: Rome's Best Food Neighbourhood

Testaccio is where Romans eat. No tourist menus, no English signs, just the city's best market, its most authentic trattorias, and a neighbourhood that lives and breathes food.

Eat

Flavio al Velavevodetto (cacio e pepe against a Roman hill of ancient amphorae), Da Felice (the definitive Roman trattoria — book ahead), Trapizzino (the inventor of the trapizzino — pizza pocket filled with Roman stews).

Market

Mercato Testaccio (the covered market — food stalls, fresh produce, and lunch counters. Mordi e Vai does legendary bollito sandwiches. Arrive hungry at noon).

Drink

Rec23 (cocktail bar in a former garage), Oasi della Birra (beer paradise — 500+ labels), the neighbourhood bars around Monte Testaccio (Rome's nightlife zone).

See

MACRO Testaccio (contemporary art in a former slaughterhouse), Cimitero Acattolico (Non-Catholic Cemetery — Keats and Shelley are buried here. Hauntingly beautiful. Free donation).

💡 Pro tip: The Mercato Testaccio at lunchtime is Rome's best food experience. Go to Mordi e Vai for a stewed-meat sandwich, then Pasticceria Barberini for a maritozzo con panna. You'll understand why Romans guard this neighbourhood.

Why this neighbourhood?

Every great Italy trip includes at least one neighbourhood where you stop sightseeing and start living. This could be yours.

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