The Italian Riviera (Liguria) stretches from the French border to Cinque Terre. Most tourists know Portofino (glamour) and Cinque Terre (hiking). Between them lies a coast that rivals the Amalfi for beauty with 1/5 the crowds and 1/3 the prices: Camogli (pastel fishermen's village, the most authentic), Santa Margherita Ligure (elegant resort, Portofino's cheaper neighbor), Rapallo (local life, castle on the sea), Sestri Levante (Bay of Silence — the most romantic beach in Liguria). All connected by train in 5-15 minutes.
Portofino: The most photographed harbor in Italy. Tiny, expensive, gorgeous. Piazzetta (€15 espresso — the price includes the view and the celebrity-spotting). Walk to Punta del Faro lighthouse (30 min, free, spectacular). Don't sleep here (€300-1,000/night). Day trip from Santa Margherita (bus 15 min, €3 / boat €7-15 / walk 40 min along the cliff path). Santa Margherita Ligure: Portofino's elegant, affordable neighbor. Pastel waterfront, palm trees, seafood restaurants (focaccia di Recco, trofie al pesto). €80-180/night. The best base for the Riviera. Search Santa Margherita →
Camogli: The most authentic town on the Riviera. Fishermen's houses painted in trompe l'oeil. Pebble beach. Focacceria Revello (the best focaccia in Liguria, €3/piece). Boat to San Fruttuoso (medieval abbey on a hidden beach — the Christ of the Abyss statue underwater, snorkeling). €70-150/night. Rapallo: Larger, more "real" — Italians vacation here, not tourists. Castle on a promontory. Lungomare walk. €60-130/night. Sestri Levante: Baia del Silenzio (Bay of Silence) — a crescent beach between two headlands, utterly calm. Hans Christian Andersen stayed here and named it. €80-160/night.
Train from Milan: 2-2.5h to Santa Margherita/Camogli. From Florence: 2.5-3h (change in La Spezia or Genova). From Genova: 30-40 min. Between towns: Trains every 10-20 min (€2-4, 5-15 min). Boat: Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio connects Camogli-San Fruttuoso-Portofino-Santa Margherita (€7-15 per hop, all-day ticket €20). The boats are half transport, half sightseeing cruise — take them.